Jeti-Oguz

One of the main sight around Karakol are some impressive geological formations in a place called Jeti-Oguz, 30 minutes away by car. The most famous of them is called the Seven Bulls, because of the seven rocks that make it up.

I actually went there on my first day in Karakol, but it was already late and because the sun was right over the Seven Bulls, I couldn't catch the color of the rocks with my camera. So I had to go once again.

In the cafe at the hostel, there is a board where people can find partners for excursions. I joined a French couple who wrote their name on the board, and we end up 9 people to go together, filling two taxis.

The seven bulls of Jeti-Oguz.

From the other side, the last two of the bulls form the Broken Heart.

Next to the seventh bull.

Some more stunning landscapes.

With Martina, one of the only two Swiss people I met in Karakol (nicely photobombed by Romain).

 The whole group walking through the valley.

After one hour walk, 6 of us rent some horses to go to a waterfall, the other ones went back.

My horse was quite slow (or I might be a slow rider...); I was quickly distanced.

He was out of breath in the uphills...

...and afraid in the downhills.

But anyway we made it to the waterfall.

The valley of Jeti-Oguz.

Duet hostel

After learning Russian during one month in Bishkek, my plan was to apply my newly acquired skills in the field. A few months ago, I contacted the Duet Hostel in Karakol through workaway.info, and we agreed that I would volunteer there for four weeks. The hostel consist of a 12 beds dorm, three yurts with 7 beds each, and a cafe serving breakfast, sandwiches and drinks, where the guests can meet each other.

I have several duties such as handle reservations, perform check-ins, maintain the website or inform guests about the hikes and excursions in the area. The work is pretty relaxed; there is another volunteer, Andrea, and the owner, Anara, gives us a lot of freedom and flexibility. With Andrea, we organize our working time ourselves, and it is never a problem if one of us wants to go to the city or even leave for a trek during several days.

As for my Russian, most of the guests are European, so I end up practicing much more my French, English and German. I also bought a book in Bishkek with Russian exercises, expecting to work on it every day, but that did not happened either... But anyway, what I like the most here is that I meet lot of new people. There is always someone to have dinner with, or a group to go hiking together. 

The Duet Hostel.

In front of the yurts with Andrea.

 Working at the reception.

The cafe where our guests socialize together.

At the bar with Anara, the owner of the hostel.

With Cezim who was working at the bar during her summer holidays.

Pancakes at almost every breakfast.

My most important duty is actually to play Uno with our guests.

Eating in the kitchen of the dorm with French friends.

Karakol

It's already been three weeks that I've been in the city of Karakol, at the east end of Issyk-Kul, and haven't written on it yet. There are more than 50'000 people living here around, but it looks like a small town with less than 5'000 inhabitants.

Beside a few parks, there are about two sights in the city: the Orthodox Cathedral and the Dungan Mosque (the Dungans are a Muslim minority that emigrated from China in the 19th century). As always in Kyrgyzstan, the interesting thing is the nature around, as Karakol is the base for many treks in summer, and is a ski resort in winter.

Toktogul street, the center of the city.

Abdrahmanov street, perpendicular to Toktugul.

All the streets look the same, except that some are paved and some other not.

 A couple getting married in Victory Park.

The first sight: the Holy Trinity Cathedral. 

The second sight: the Dungan Mosque.

Actually there is a third sight for Swiss people. The local Historical Museum offers an exposition about Ella Maillart and her trip through Central Asia in 1932.

The animal bazaar takes place every Sunday morning from 5 to 10 AM. It is one of the biggest of Kyrgyzstan.

You can buy or sell horses, cows, goats, sheep, etc. Here the cow section.

 And here the... rotten lada with sheep tight on it section. 

 The Dungans not only know how to build mosques, they also cook tasty food... in very large quantities.

When I have a few hours free, I like to hike in the hills south of Karakol.

From there, one can see a beautiful panorama of the town and Issyk-Kul.

The top of the hills is at 2500 meters, about 700 meters higher than Karakol.

Pristan, the beach on Issyk-Kul 15 kilometers away from Karakol.

Kazakhstan

As a Swiss citizen, I'm allowed to stay in Kyrgyzstan up to 60 days without visa. But I'm actually planning to stay 71 days there. So what do I do? I am actually allowed to exit and reenter the country as many times as I want. And the best part is: each time I get 60 fresh new days! Since Kazakhstan does not require any visa either, and is only 20 kilometers away from Bishkek, that solves my problem!

My cousin Eliane being already back in Switzerland, we went with Lilia and Milena for three days to Almaty, the cultural capital of Kazakhstan. From the Kyrgyz capital, it is a 4 hours drive in marshrutka (minibus).

In Bishkek, one can still see and feel the soviet influence. Almaty however looks like a modern European city: large avenues, big malls, lots of shops, cafes, restaurants, clubs, etc.

 Welcome to Kazakhstan, or Good luck as they wrote at the customs.

 After crossing the border, the Kazakh steppes replaced the Kirghiz mountains.

 Between the two cities, it is mostly uninhabited.

 Approaching Almaty, there are some villages again.

 Like Bishkek, the city is very green.

 Unlike Bishkek, there are some canals.

From the center, we took a gondola to Kok-Tobe, a hill overlooking Almaty.

 The view from Kok-Tobe.

 The Kazakh city is at the foot of the Ala-Too mountain range.

 In front of the Dostyk Plaza, a big shopping mall.

 Almaty is much more stroller friendly than Bishkek.

...except that currently there are roadworks in most avenues of the center.

 Ascension Cathedral, also in maintenance.

 The Central State Museum of the Republic of Kazakhstan.

 The Independence Monument.